Performing carpentry. Templates for carpentry: tips for a novice carpenter, instructions, guides. Tools for taking measurements and markings
Solid wood itself is obtained from a tree cut down and cleared of branches and bark. The value of a particular wood depends on the type of tree and the structure of its trunk.
Solid wood is used in carpentry in the form of boards of different lengths, beams, beams, beams, and various kinds of figured elements.
You should first consider the structure of wood itself in Figure 1.
1. Main cuts of the trunk.
Here the main technological
the cuts are:
- transverse (in Fig. 1 this is plane B),
- radial (plane B),
- tangential (plane A is a section tangential to the growth rings).
The most visual representation of the structural texture of wood is provided by a tangential cut. In the central part of the tree trunk
core 1 is located (the core is usually the loosest tissue).
2. Tree rings.
Tree rings radiate from the core in concentric circles around the circumference, forming sapwood; each ring represents annual growth, which allows us to determine the age of the trunk.
Rice. 1
A - tangential cut;
B - radial section;
B - cross section
1 - core;
2 - core;
3 - sapwood;
4 - bark;
5 - medullary rays;
b - annual rays
3. Tree species.
Wood species are divided into those with a core and those without a core. They are also called core and coreless.
Coreless species have only core 1 and sapwood 3. The quality of sapwood is significantly inferior to the core, and therefore, for example, oak wood itself varies in quality. The oak core is valuable (for cabinetry), and the sapwood of this valuable species is not used at all in carpentry.
Class carpentryIt is unthinkable without the ability to distinguish wood species from one another and recognize them in a workpiece or product. For white-wood work, coniferous species are usually used - pine, spruce and deciduous species - birch, linden, poplar. Coniferous species are also used as a base when gluing parts with plywood made from valuable wood species. Solid wood products use hardwood for a clear finish. When carving wood, which will then be painted dark, hardwoods are used - aspen, linden, birch, rowan, and willow. If the carved parts have a natural color, it is best to take pear, maple, walnut, and chestnut.
Brief characteristics of the main tree species and their application
1. Hardwood.
Hardwoods are of the greatest importance in carpentry, of which oak should be given primacy in our territory.
Oak(hardwood) - used in furniture production, construction (milled wooden parts, parquet), carriage building, shipbuilding, hydraulic engineering; oak wood is durable, strong, hard, resistant to rotting, has a beautiful texture, and bends well.Oak has clearly visible pores when cut tangentially, and core rays when cut radially; very durable, easily stained black. Real bog oak that has lain in water has a color ranging from brown-green to black. In combination with a radial cut, the texture of such an oak board is very beautiful.
Beech(hardwood) - used in furniture production (parquet, veneer, carpentry tools, containers), in shoe production (lasts), and mechanical engineering. Acetic acid and creosote are obtained from beech wood by dry distillation. Beech wood is durable, but susceptible to rotting, good
processed, impregnated, bends well. It warps a lot when it dries out.
Beech in its pure form is not expressive. In a radial section of the beech, shiny plates appear, visible from the end as dark lines. This type of cutting gives beech wood the most decorative qualities. But in terms of strength, beech has almost no equal.
Elm has a dark core and clearly visible annual layers. In a radial section, they form an interesting pockmarked appearance. By the nature of processing, hardness and other properties, elm is close to oak. The wood texture is especially beautiful in the butt part.
Hornbeam(hard rock) - used in turning, mechanical engineering, and textile production. The bodies of carpentry tools are made from hornbeam. Hornbeam wood is distinguished by its hardness, heaviness, difficult to process, and very resistant to abrasion. Like beech, hornbeam wood warps greatly when it dries out.
Ash(strong and tough rock) - widely used in the manufacture of sports equipment, furniture production, aircraft manufacturing, carriage building, shipbuilding, and housing construction.
Ash resembles oak wood, it is somewhat lighter, and has no core rays. When stained and dyed, it acquires an unpleasant gray color, so it is usually used in its natural color.
Carpentry tools are made from ash. The wood is strong and tough, has a beautiful texture, durable, and resistant to decay. Ash wood bends well, warps a little, but is poorly saturated with antiseptics. Elm, elm, elm (dense, durable species) - these species, due to their beautiful texture, are widely used in furniture and plywood production. Having great strength, they are used in mechanical engineering and carriage building. The wood of elm, elm, and elm is distinguished by its strength, viscosity, and density. It resists wear well and bends well.
Nut(hardwood) - scope of use - furniture and plywood production, housing construction (interior wood finishing). Walnut wood is heavy, durable and hard with a beautiful texture. The wood is well processed and polished well. Linden (soft wood) - pencils, toys, musical instruments, and other products are made from it. Linden is also widely used in furniture and plywood production. Linden wood is soft, light, and easy to process. When drying, linden shrinks significantly, but warps and cracks to an insignificant extent.
Walnut and Manchurian walnut have red-brown wood, sometimes with dark veins, are difficult to plan, and lend themselves well to polishing and painting. Walnut burls have a particularly beautiful pattern; Burls are cut into planks, which are assembled into shields on a coniferous base. Hornbeam has a hard wood of white-yellow color, very heavy, suitable for imitation of ebony. Mainly used on the soles of carpentry tools. Works well, polishes poorly. The pear has wood of a beautiful pink color with delicate lines of annual layers. The wood is dense, heavy, and can be easily polished and painted. Suitable for small-profile carved items, drawing tools. Little warping and cracking when drying. Thanks to the developed central trunk, the pear produces long, straight pieces.
Birch(moderately hard wood) - widely used in the manufacture of skis, gun stocks, parquet, laminated plastics, particle boards and fiberboards, cellulose. Housing construction, furniture and plywood production are also areas of application for birch. Where there is high humidity, birch wood is not used. Birch is uniform in density, moderately hard, and easy to process. Birch material is often imitated to resemble valuable species, is well polished, painted, and can be impregnated well. But birch is not resistant to decay and warps, which narrows its scope of application.
Maple(hardwood) - area of application - mechanical engineering, plywood, music and furniture production. In shoemaking, lasts are made from maple, and in carpentry, lasts for planes are made. Maple wood is characterized by strength, density and hardness, and has an impressive glossy surface. Amenable to painting and polishing. The drying rate is insignificant.
Russian maple, sycamore, black maple have dense gray-pink wood with a delicate pattern. The radial cut is especially beautiful. Maple is easily polished and accepts mordants; it can imitate most rare trees with wood of an even structure. American maple, or ash-leaf, has a wood texture similar to ash, but with smaller pores and denser wood; it is difficult to process and polish.
Aspen(softwood) - this type of wood is widely used in the match industry, construction, and in the viscose industry for the production of rayon. Aspen, like poplar, is successfully used for various crafts and for making toys. Roofing tiles are also made from aspen. The wood is soft, has few knots, is light, can be processed well, is well impregnated and glued together. Of particular note is the strength of aspen in the aquatic environment and its resistance to woodworms. Aspen warps little and is resistant to cracking.
Poplar- used as a good ornamental material (dishes, troughs, spoons, toys, etc.), used in the production of pulp and in construction. Poplar wood is soft, dries out quite strongly, bends poorly, and is susceptible to rotting. The material of this breed is mossy. Alder (soft wood) - the area of application of alder is quite extensive - this includes carpentry and furniture production, plywood production, and lumber production. Alder has proven itself well in underwater construction, in particular, it is used to construct log houses for wells. Alder is used in the manufacture of souvenirs; it is a good material for artistic processing (wood carving). Considering that alder does not give off any odor, it is indispensable in container production.
Elm- Southern tree with brown wood. Burls often form on elm trunks. The sawn boards made from them are exceptionally beautiful. Sycamore, plane tree (eastern plane tree), growing in the south of the country, have a brown-brown core. The oblique direction of the wavy lines in the annual rings gives the texture of the plane tree, especially in a radial section, a grain-like appearance. Edible chestnut has a gray-brown core, the wood is similar to oak, but in a radial section it does not have shiny core rays. Horse chestnut is usually cross-laminated, the wood is evenly colored, grayish in color (reminiscent of pine), and is suitable for carvings and stains. Strength is high. Amur velvet (Amur cork) has wood similar to ash wood, but slightly darker.
Rare hardwoods.
Rare hardwood species include pear, cherry, white acacia, apple tree. The density of the wood of these species exceeds oak and beech, has a beautiful color, is well processed and polished. The wood of the listed species is mainly used in ornamental work.
White acaciahas a wide black-gray or green-brown core, very durable wood with matted fibers, difficult to process in a dry state. Wet - prone to brittleness. But the work is rewarded by the beautiful appearance of the product. Mulberry (mulberry) has red-brown wood (narrow sapwood); Wood darkens when exposed to light. Fruit tree wood - cherries, cherries, plums, apple trees, apricots- an excellent ornamental material for a wide variety of products. As a rule, it is a very hard, fine-grained wood of various shades - from white-pink to black-blue and purple in the core parts. With the exception of cherries, pieces of wood from these species are not long due to the branching structure of the trees. Birch- The most common hardwood, suitable for a variety of stains.
2. Conifers.
Pine(softwood) is a good building material in various fields; it is widely used in furniture production, including various artistic crafts. Pine wood is quite strong, light, and soft. When it dries, it warps a little, is well processed, impregnated and painted.
Spruce(soft rock) - main application - pulp and paper production and construction. A good material for the furniture industry, for the manufacture of musical instruments, and is used in the manufacture of tannins. Spruce, as a material, is inferior to pine. Although spruce wood has a similar structure to pine, it is more knotty, is processed worse, and is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. However, spruce, due to its low resin content, holds glue better and dries faster. Spruce has white wood with barely noticeable annual layers. It has black, chaotically scattered knots, unlike pine, in which the knots are located in whorls (groups at the same level).
It has a very beautiful texture juniper- coniferous shrub with trunks up to 10 cm thick. The end cuts of juniper, suitable for inlay, are amazingly beautiful. The pleasant smell of wood lasts for a very long time and carpentry made from it can be compared with similar products made from camphor laurel, so beloved in Europe in the last century.
Cypress, thujaThey are similar in properties to juniper, but their wood is grayer and wider-grained. Cypress does not crack or warp, which is why it was previously used for icon boards. Cypress, thuja and juniper lend themselves well to fine carving. Other conifers are less suitable for small carvings.
Fir(soft rock) - used in the pulp and paper industry, construction, furniture industry, and in the manufacture of musical instruments. Fir is also used in medicine to make fir oil. Fir wood is close in its characteristics to spruce. Soft and light, it is difficult to impregnate with antiseptics. The scope of fir is narrowing due to its instability against decay.
Cedar, Siberian pine(softwood) - the area of application is the same as that of pine (construction, furniture industry, carpentry, pencil making, etc.). In terms of physical and mechanical properties, it is between spruce and fir, but is more resistant to rotting. Well processed.
Larch - beautiful The wood is a beautiful creamy brown color.
3. Imported wood.
Eucalyptus(hard rock) - is used in bridge construction, hydraulic structures, underwater technologies and, of course, in residential and industrial construction. Eucalyptus wood is strong, hard and heavy. Very resistant to rotting. But it is difficult to process; the core of the tree is poorly saturated with antiseptics. Grows in Georgia, Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines.
Mahogany (mahogany). The wood of this tree is used to make high-quality furniture, panels, various crafts and accessories. Mahogany carpentry tools are highly valued. Veneer from this tree is used to decorate prestigious products. The wood is hard, durable, does not crack or warp. Very beautiful texture. Mahogany is a low-density species that can be processed well industrially, but is difficult to process manually. Grows in Mexico and Central America.
Balsa wood- in carpentry work it is used for internal layers of laminated laminated wood. Good heat and sound insulator, filler for life-saving equipment. Balsa wood is the lightest, fastest growing and softest of all tree species. Grows in Mexico, Central America and South America (Ecuador). There is balsa in Georgia (Colchis).
There are several wood processing techniques:
- Cutting;
- Sawing;
- Planing;
- Drilling;
- Chiseling;
- Cutting;
- Cycling;
- Grinding;
To perform each of these techniques, you will need a certain set of tools and knowledge of a certain set of knowledge. If you have never encountered any technique before, then during your first experiments you may not succeed. There is no need to be upset about this - even the most skilled craftsmen always started from scratch.
Used only when processing ridges, plates and quarters. This processing technique involves separating the bark from the solid wood. The main tool used in the work is an axe.
All actions of the ax are directed from the top to the base along the circle of the trunk. In this case, the ax blade should not penetrate deep into the bark layer, so as not to damage the wood itself. As work progresses, protruding knots should be cut off along with the bark, thereby maximally preparing the wood for subsequent processing.
Sawing wood
This technique contains two varieties at once.
Firstly, mechanical sawing of ridges and plates can produce boards of varying degrees of quality.
Secondly, using this technique you can make certain parts from the resulting boards.
We will not touch on the first type of sawing, since it requires special equipment that is used only in woodworking enterprises.
The second cutting method can also be done on a workbench at home. Depending on how thick the wood is chosen, you will need to choose one saw or another. The sawing technique used during work depends on how you secure the workpiece on the workbench. If you fix the workpiece horizontally on a workbench, and the saw is positioned perpendicular to the part itself, then this technique is called horizontal.
In this case, the cutting site should extend slightly beyond the surface of the workbench, so that during work you cannot damage the working board, and the procedure itself will be much more convenient. The peculiarity of a cross cut is that the cut does not run along the fibers, but across them. At the same time, the likelihood of spalling increases both from the part left and from the part being sawed off. It’s good if the chipping occurred on the piece being sawn off - you can then easily remove the excess wood from the desired part.
But if the chipping occurs exactly where it is necessary to have a flat, smooth surface, you will have to either restore the wood or cut out a new part. A thin hacksaw with a “mouse tooth” will help you avoid such troubles.
If you need to saw off a board or block at a right angle or at an angle of 45 degrees, and you already have a miter box on hand, then you only need to lay the board evenly in the groove, press it to the side farthest from you and evenly, without moving the workpiece, saw off the unnecessary piece . When cutting, make several movements with the hacksaw blade along the already marked line, thereby strengthening the blade in the solid wood. In further work, you will only need to adjust the movements of the hacksaw if its blade tries to get around a knot or difficult area. Your efforts are reduced only to monitoring the uniform penetration of the teeth throughout the entire area. There should be no physical effort when sawing correctly: in this you can completely rely on the saw, but not with your whole body, because only a slight, even pressure on the hacksaw during smooth movements will ensure an even cut. During this operation, it is best to position the workpiece so that the piece to be sawn is on the left side. When you finish sawing, your free left hand will make it easier to hold the unwanted piece and prevent it from falling on your feet. All movements when cutting out a part are made in a sweeping manner, i.e. completely moving the hacksaw blade along the cut. When using an electric saw, all operations are performed in the same way as when working with a hand saw.
This wood processing technique involves leveling the surface after sawing. Depending on the stages of planing, different types of planes are used. Place the part prepared for finishing on the workbench and secure it. First of all, start with a rough leveling using sherhebel. In this case, all movements are directed across the fibers, but not along them, since too much wood can be removed.
If along the route of the scherhebel there are twists that make processing difficult, then do not focus on them. Otherwise, the wood may break off in this place, and the block will become unsuitable for further work. After treating the surface of small parts with Sherhebel, it must be cleaned with a single plane and then a double one. If you are working with long pieces, such as boards, then you are better off using a jointer or semi-jointer. The plane's movement along the surface should be directed along the fibers, and not against them. This is the only way to make the surface even and smooth. When planing the ends of boards and bars, make several movements with the plane from one edge to the center, and then several movements from the other edge to the center. This will allow you to avoid the formation of chips and flakes at the ends.
This technique is used to make various holes. These holes can be through and blind, deep and shallow, wide and narrow. Before you start drilling, you need to select a drill of the appropriate size, then use an awl to make a mark on the wood, secure the drill in the chuck and set the drill exactly to the mark. If you want to drill a blind hole, then as the drill moves into the solid wood, gradually loosen the pressure on the drill - this way you will avoid chipping the wood and forming a through hole.
Before starting work, secure the block or workpiece well in a vice. Then mark the surface of the wood, first with a simple hard pencil, and then make marks with a knife. If you need to make a fairly deep and large hole, first select the wood with a chisel, and then proceed to clean the surface with a chisel. One more small note. When starting work, pay attention to the selection of wood near the edges, which are located transverse to the direction of the grain. Large blind holes are made as follows: drive the chisel blade in with a mallet, then tilt it slightly in the opposite direction from which the blade was chamfered, and lift the blade up.
Break down the wood and separate several pieces from the massif. Then step back 2-3 mm from the hole made and do the same. When finishing the edges of a recess, always step back 1-2 mm from it, and place the chisel with a chamfer towards it. If you lift the blade of the chisel with the side where the chamfer is removed, then you will crush the wood with the uncleaned surface of the blade. If you need to make a through hole, then remove the wood from both sides at the same time, gradually reducing the intermediate layer. Clean the hollowed out hole at the edges with a straight, narrow chisel.
Wood cutting
Cutting is always done either with chisels or a blunt knife. Most often, wood is sampled with chisels, which allow you to make precise holes and recesses of various shapes and depths.
A blunt knife can only somewhat replace a tool that does not exist. When using the tool that is most suitable for the job, you will understand that replacement should always remain only a temporary phenomenon. The faster you find the tool you need, the faster and better the work will be. Chisels are used in the same way as a chisel, only the impact on the wood is done without a hammer.
Cutting wood is carried out as follows: on the marking, place the chisel blade with a chamfer inside the future recess. Then cut the chisel 2-3 mm deep into the wood. After the first cut, place the chisel 1-2 mm deep into the intended socket and make the same cut. As a result, you will end up with a small notch. By gradually moving deeper and grabbing more and more wood at a time, you will make the hole you need. In the middle of the recess, the cut can be made to a depth of approximately 5-6 mm, but near the edges, so as not to damage the sides, only 2-3 mm, no more. In order to make a through hole, make a cut from the very edges to the full depth. If necessary, pruning can be done in several steps. After removing the wood, be sure to clean the bottom and sides of the resulting recess with a narrow straight or semicircular chisel.
Wood cycling
This type of processing allows you to use a knife to clean the surface of wood as smoothly as possible, where a chisel or plane cannot do it. In this case, the process itself is more like scraping. The movements of the cycle are directed towards themselves, and the knife itself is installed with the chamfer facing up.
After all the work is completed, all you have to do is level and clean the treated surface after the plane. To sand the surface, emery cloth is used, which is an abrasive coating on a paper, fabric or cardboard base. Depending on the size of the grains and the type of abrasive, several types of sandpaper are distinguished. On the inner surface of the roll, pay attention to the letter and number designation. The letters indicate the types of abrasive used in the sandpaper, and the numbers indicate the degree of grinding of the abrasive. The smaller the number on the inside, the finer the grains applied to the surface of the skin.
If you see the letter “C”, then this means that crushed glass was used here.
“KB” in this case means quartz, and “KR” means silicon. These are one of the most commonly used abrasives.
Rough, coarse-grained sandpaper is used for rough surface treatment, but for final sanding it is better to use fine-grained sandpaper, which will not leave traces of grains on the surface. To prevent your fingers from getting tired of holding the skin correctly, take a small block and wrap it in the skin. In addition, such a block allows you to smoothly clean the surface without the formation of bumps and depressions. The evenness of the surface also depends on the force of pressure on the block. The harder you press, the more likely it is to create an uneven surface. The direction in which you sand is also important. If you sand across the direction of the grain, the marks will remain more noticeable than when sanding in the direction of the grain or slightly obliquely.
It is almost impossible to do without glue when connecting parts. When gluing wood, you need to use glue that should be either transparent or light, not change the color of the wood, not set too quickly, its excess can be easily removed, and inside the seam it would help protect the wood from rotting and the penetration of microorganisms inside. In addition, most adhesives are water-repellent.
- Bonding technology
- Gluing technology
Adhesives
All adhesives can be divided into natural and synthetic. Depending on what ingredients are used in the preparation of natural glue, they can be animal, vegetable and mineral. In the manufacture of synthetic adhesives, only artificially created compounds are used. Any glue that you need for work consists of several components: the adhesive itself, a solvent that maintains a certain consistency of the composition, a hardener that helps it set and connect the parts, and antiseptics that protect the treated surface from the effects of insects, microorganisms and various substances , destroying the structure of wood.
The most commonly used natural adhesives are bone, prepared on the basis of bone meal. But such adhesives do not react well to humidity, and therefore, if you are going to do something for a bathhouse, sauna, or put it near a pool, you are better off using a different glue for gluing.
Casein adhesives are made on the basis of milk protein. They glue surfaces very firmly, but alkali is used as a solvent, which stains the wood.
Glue K-17 convenient for clean gluing large surfaces; it forms a thin film and does not harden for a long time.
PVA glue, or polyvinyl acetate dispersion, sets quickly and therefore requires speed in work. It is a white liquid, which after drying becomes a transparent film. This glue is the most versatile when gluing parts. Carpentry glue can be used several times. To do this, you just need to heat the glue on fire. Both wood glue and bone glue are sold in granules or shavings, which can be turned into a sticky mass at home. If you bought glue in the form of shavings or granules, you can immediately pour it into hot water and, stirring, bring it over low heat until completely dissolved. If you bought glue in the form of tiles, then before putting it in water, crush the glue, then fill it with cold water in a bowl and leave it for a day until it completely swells. And only then transfer the pieces to another bowl and begin the gluing procedure itself. The finished glue should flow from the stick used for stirring; it should be thick and resemble the consistency of rich sour cream.
In order to prepare glue, you will need to acquire a special device - a glue gun. It can be replaced with two ordinary pans, and one of them should be slightly smaller so that it can easily be attached to the sides of the other with handles. Pour water into a smaller pan and add glue, and pour water into another pan so that the glue you are preparing does not burn. If foam forms during glue preparation, it must be removed periodically. Most glues do not last long and the next day at room temperature they acquire a rotten smell. In order for the glue to last for several days, during its preparation you can add a few grams of phenol at the rate of 1 g per 1 liter. glue.
Now the prepared glue can be applied to the surface of the part. To do this, you will need either a bristle brush or linden bark, a piece of which has been previously soaked. In any case, the glue is applied to the surface in a thin layer.
Gluing
There are two ways to connect parts using glue: gluing or gluing. Bonding is used for various tenon and miter joints. Gluing is used only in the manufacture of plywood, when finishing the surface with veneer, etc. There are two ways to glue parts: by squeezing the surfaces with clamps or by rubbing the surfaces together after applying glue to them. By lapping, mainly thin parts are connected, which, after slightly setting, are adjusted to each other and left until the glue dries completely. This method of gluing parts together must occur quickly and accurately, so before you begin, prepare everything you need for work: clamps, gaskets, tapes, supports, belts, as well as the surfaces of the parts being glued, which must be clean. If you accidentally stain it with dirty hands or drop oil, wipe the stained areas with acetone or alcohol. When gluing, spacers are used to distribute the compression force as evenly as possible. It also protects surfaces from the formation of dents when clamped with clamps. The gasket is always made slightly larger than the dimensions of the parts to be glued. Most often, gaskets are made from sheets of plywood. Additionally, to prevent the surfaces from sticking to the pads, you will need to place additional sheets of paper between the pad and the surface. When gluing using the compression method, be sure to ensure that when installing the clamps, there is no displacement of the surfaces, which can then no longer be restored.
To ensure a good, durable seam, it is best to work in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 degrees. Also, the glue must be applied in a thin, even layer, and the glue should not be too liquid. But a thick layer is also unacceptable - it will crack when it dries. Also, do not try to grind the surfaces to be glued - the surfaces should be slightly rough, which will allow you to get a reliable connection. If you need to glue several parts at once, do not try to apply glue to everything at once - in the lower layers the glue will begin to set, but will not be evenly distributed, which will cause the surface to form waves. To prevent this from happening, divide the parts into several parts, glue the strips of the parts together, and then the parts. It is best to glue in levels, for example, in one step - the legs of chairs, in another - the seats. If you have to glue a complex structure consisting of many nodes, then first connect all the parts without glue, adjust if something protrudes, and only then apply glue. Obvious defects during gluing cannot be eliminated, and it is also impossible to disassemble an already glued structure without damaging it. After you have applied glue to the components of the structure, you need to put it under a press and wait a certain time so that the glue completely sets and dries. If you used wood glue, then you can remove the part from under the press only after 24 hours. PVA glue requires less time - only 4-5 hours. But this does not mean that the glue has completely dried and the structure is ready for further work. After the required time has elapsed, loosen the clamps, check if everything is as you need, if there are any shifts in the layers, and leave it for another day so that the glue dries completely.
Pasting
Gluing differs from gluing in that only facing work is performed here. This is a fairly simple way to imitate solid wood using only veneer and a wooden base. In addition, this technique will also help you in making mosaics, which will perfectly decorate the top of any table, cabinet doors, bedside table in the bedroom, etc. Although veneer of valuable wood species is used here, and the work itself requires attentiveness and precision of the eye, this work Even a person who has never dealt with wood can do it. It looks more like an appliqué made of paper and cardboard. But there are several features that must always be remembered and observed during work.
- Veneer should only be glued onto a very flat surface, slightly rough, but without visible notches. If I may say so, the surface of the base should be velvety.
- The veneer must be glued across the direction of the base fibers, but not along, otherwise cracks may appear that will only spoil the surface. They arise due to different shrinkage of the veneer and the base.
- If you use expensive veneer and glue it onto a particle board, be sure to glue an intermediate layer of cheap veneer or cotton fabric.
- When using burl or high-grain wood veneers, select a base of thoroughly dried wood to prevent cracks from forming later.
- To glue veneer on small surfaces, use PVA glue, and on large surfaces, use wood glue. This will help you make the pasting better.
Just like gluing, gluing is carried out in two ways: pressing and lapping. Both methods are performed in the following sequence:
- First, apply a layer of glue to the base, then put veneer on it, iron it with a clean cloth, thereby removing all air bubbles from under it. After this, for a better connection, moisten the top of the veneer with a sponge and warm water. After 1-2 hours, when the glue begins to thicken, rub the veneer in the direction of the grain, being careful not to pick up the edges. To do this, all movements must be directed towards the edges or diagonally towards them
- Before leaving the structure until completely glued, place sheets of white paper on
seams. Now all this can be left as it is, or you can put it under a press, laying it on top of the veneer
paper, then a gasket and only then clamp it with clamps; - Sifted and heated sand can be used as a press for parts with an uneven, curved surface. First place a sheet of paper on the surface, thereby protecting the veneer from contamination, and then a canvas bag with sand. The more sand, the more pressure will be exerted. But it should not be excessive so that the veneer does not deform. The optimal pressure will be exerted by a layer of sand of 9-11 cm. The surface can be freed from such a press only after the sand has completely cooled, so that the veneer does not “bubble”.
Now let's talk about the disadvantages that may arise when gluing veneer to a base.
First of all, this is the formation of so-called “siskins” - places where the layer of glue was insufficient and air cushions formed. The simplest tapping will help you detect such areas - empty places will sound dull under impacts. The “siskin” should be cut with a joint knife, then carefully lift one edge and use a pipette or syringe with a large-bore needle to pour a few drops of glue into the void. After this, using a rag, stroking the surface in a circular motion, spread the glue inside the former “siskin” and iron the seam, onto which you then need to apply a paper strip.
Then this place must be ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 100-110 degrees.
Air bubbles formed due to uneven grinding most often have a convex shape. Such a bubble also needs to be cut, slightly soak the veneer around the bubble, then pour in a few drops of glue from a pipette or syringe and rub it with a warm iron through the paper.
Some veneer parts may move when glued. Thus, millimeters of excess veneer appear at the edges.
Only after the glue has completely fixed will they have to be aligned. Depending on the size of the protruding edges, either a jamb knife or a plane is used. The plane is only suitable for a relatively small protrusion - about 1 mm. The larger protrusion is removed with a jamb knife. In this case, be sure to place a strip of the same thickness next to the part so that the veneer does not break off during alignment.
Hobbies are different. One needs to listen to music, the other needs to walk with a plane through wood that smells of forest and resin. And sitting, say, on garden furniture made by yourself is a pleasure. But any business begins with the choice of material. So, let's get to work!
What kind of wood is needed and what is it for?
Let's start with the fact that carpentry work is divided into white wood and cabinetry. The starting material for white-wood work is coniferous and soft deciduous wood. These are birch and linden, and also poplar. For cabinetry work, hard wood is used, mainly valuable deciduous species. But in any case, preference is given to those tree species that have a straight trunk and a limited number of knots. Knowing the properties of wood species, you can choose the right wood for certain jobs.
For example, coniferous trees are used as a basis for veneering various parts. Due to its softness, front parts are rarely made from wood of these species. But with certain technologies, even furniture is made from coniferous wood. One of the advantages of softwood is that it is easy to stain. On the other hand, the color background muffles the decorative advantages of this wood.
Hardwood is usually used in its entirety. This category includes: birch, walnut, ash, etc. In mosaic work, veneers of both hardwood and softwood are acceptable. It's a completely different matter - wood carving. Not many tree species are suitable for this purpose; for example, linden, rowan and birch are suitable. This list can be supplemented with willow and aspen. In the case when it is necessary to preserve the natural color of the tree, maple and chestnut are used, as well as pear and oak.
We choose wisely
When choosing wood, an experienced carpenter will pay attention to radial cracks in the end. In benign material they are absent altogether, and if present, they are small. And wood with cracks running through the layers is considered not at all suitable for carpentry work.
The denser the annual layers, the higher the quality of coniferous wood. Wide-grain wood is usually too loose and therefore fragile. As for the age of trees, medium, that is, mature, is considered optimal. For example, pine is most suitable for carpentry work, reaching 80 - 90 years, for oak it is 80 - 150 years. At the same age, the tree reaches its greatest flexibility.
By the way, it also depends on what time of year the tree was cut down. Wood harvested in autumn is more flexible than wood harvested in winter. The most flexible are alder, fir, hornbeam and larch.
It would be a shame if a product made of wood splits. To prevent this, be careful when choosing wood. More surprises can be expected from dense and flexible rocks. However, the confusion of tree species reduces this likelihood.
As for the health of wood, craftsmen in every possible way avoid wood that is affected by fungal diseases. A clear sign is uneven or overly bright color. And too many knots reduce its strength.
Dry your wood correctly
Proper drying of wood in carpentry, if not paramount, is at least very important. Firstly, you should correctly determine the time required for this. Experienced carpenters know: both under-dried and over-dried wood is not suitable for work. Everything affects: humidity, temperature changes. The result, although predictable, may not be very pleasant - cracked, and therefore ruined, material.
Therefore, when drying, you need to take into account some nuances. Let’s assume that the moisture content of wood harvested in winter is lower. The reason is simple: at this time the trees slow down their growth.
There is also such a feature: hard rocks are more sensitive to both under-drying and over-drying. For soft and friable rocks, this factor is less important. If you are making a product from several types of wood, select them so that the product is homogeneous. Only in this case will the degree of drying coincide, which is important.
General information. Wood is widely used in the construction of various buildings and structures. Wood is used to make formwork, scaffolding and scaffolding, various construction equipment, rafters, lathing, floors, ceilings, doors, windows. Residential buildings and public buildings are assembled from parts and structures prepared in advance at woodworking factories, bridges, crossings, overpasses, etc. are built. The widespread use of wood in construction is explained in many cases by the fact that it is a local building material, the procurement and processing of which is accessible even to the smallest construction organizations with simple mechanization and hand tools.
Wood is a valuable building material, so its use must be rational: it is necessary to minimize losses during harvesting and processing, increase turnover, i.e., repeated use in formwork, fastening and auxiliary work, extend the service life of structures by preventing rotting and protecting from fire.
In modern construction conditions, wood processing is carried out mainly mechanically. At large construction sites, woodworking plants (WFP) or workshops are created, equipped with high-performance installations for sawing, drying, sharpening, drilling, chiseling, etc., and at small construction sites, electrified tools are used for various types of wood processing. Manual wood processing is used only for small volumes of work and when it is impossible to use an electrified tool.
Woodworking works are divided into carpentry and joinery. Carpentry is the processing of wood with the arrangement of connections between elements using notches, dowels and nails. Carpentry work includes: installation of floors, ceilings, preparation and installation of formwork, rafters, trusses and bridge trusses, etc. Carpentry work is also wood processing, but cleaner, with the connection of elements mainly using glue. Carpentry work includes: production and installation of window frames, doors, clean partitions, furniture production, etc.
In construction, various connections between elements of wooden structures are used: splicing - longitudinal connection of logs or beams in a horizontal position; extension - the same, but in a vertical position; coupling and intersection of structural elements at an angle; bonding - pairing elements to increase their transverse dimensions. Matings are made through notches, tenons, using dowels and dowels (wooden and steel), as well as steel forgings (staples, bolts, clamps). Dowels are inserts made of metal or hardwood, cut into the body of both elements being connected and transmitting force from one element to the other. Elements connected using keys are tightened with bolts that absorb the forces that tend to turn the keys.
The simplest connection when splicing is a butt connection. It is used in cases where the joint of logs or beams is supported. A more reliable connection is a simple overhead lock (half-wood notch), and in order to avoid shifting, the notch is fastened with dowels. To reduce the weakening of the timber at the splice site, a simple overhead lock is replaced with an oblique cut, also fastened with dowels. In the presence of lateral shear forces, for example in the walls of log buildings, a butt cut with a vertical groove and ridge is used. When the mating elements work in tension, a rim lock with a straight tooth is made. Joining logs or boards with side edges is done by jointing with and without tenons, quarter joints, tongue-and-groove joints. To splice individual elements of wooden structures that are subject mainly to tensile forces, hemless joints using dowels, dowels, bolts, and nails are also used.
As you know, houses are built from wood, furniture is made and much more. This kind of work can be divided into two types: carpentry and joinery.
Carpentry work is mainly construction work. They include the manufacture of individual structures from wood (for example, arches and frames) and their elements, the construction of houses, bridges, dams, etc. They connect building elements to each other using bolts, carpentry and joinery. dowels (wooden or metal rods), gluing or other means. Carpentry work differs from carpentry work mainly in the more precise fit of parts, higher quality wood finishing and smaller sizes of manufactured products. These are window and door frames and doors (flooring is classified as carpentry work), furniture and other items. Carpentry work is divided into white wood (making objects from soft wood - linden, spruce, etc.) and cabinetry (using hard wood - oak, beech, etc.).
What tools are used in carpentry and joinery work? Obviously, before sawing, for example, a board, you need to outline where to cut. For this purpose, a marking tool is used: ruler, meter, tape measure, compass, square, thicknesser (for drawing parallel lines), bracket (for marking tenons and eyes), etc. Cutting tools are used in woodworking. In carpentry, the main tool is an axe. With one ax, without a single nail, the church in Kizhi, which evokes admiration and respect for the art of folk craftsmen, was cut down. An equally important carpentry tool is saws, in particular two-handed, transverse, bow saws (transverse, swing - for longitudinal sawing, circular - for curved profiles). Hacksaws are also used.
Planing of surfaces is carried out with planes of different sizes and purposes. Scherhebels are used for rough processing of flat surfaces, single and double planes are used for primary and final planing, jointers are used for final processing of long parts, and grinders are used for removing especially thin chips. To plan curved surfaces, specially shaped planes are used; To select sockets, tenons, grooves, etc., chisels are used, and when gouging out holes in thin parts, chisels are used.
Drilling of holes is carried out with gimlets, drills, and rotary hammers. The final finishing of carpentry - cleaning and sanding - is carried out with scrapers, sandpaper, and files. Currently, manual cutting tools are being replaced by mechanical ones - usually with an electric drive. Many structures and products are manufactured at woodworking enterprises and factories equipped with high-performance woodworking machines. But for a long time to come, the professions of carpenter and joiner - the oldest professions of people - will enjoy honor and respect.